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Friday, May 6, 2016

Traditional Chee Cheong Fun 纯米猪肠粉



Years back in my hometown, there was this lady riding a motorcycle with a big metal box selling her homemade Chee Cheong Fun every morning. Her Chee Cheong Fun was soft, smooth and full of rice fragrance (米香)with a slight touch of sourness. Her sauce was a good balance of sweet and salty, together with fried shallots and roasted sesame, her chee cheong fun performances an orchestra of flavors in the mouth, it was very addictive.


My parents normally purchased her Chee Cheong Fun only over the weekends. I get real excited waking in the morning to see packets of Chee Cheong Fun sitting in the cupboard ready for breakfast.


Unfortunately, she stopped selling Chee Cheong Fun due to her health condition. I can no longer enjoy a packet of her Chee Cheong Fun now when I visit my hometown.


I did, though, encountered good Chee Cheong Funs at different places over the years. But none, came close to what this lady has made. There is something about her Chee Cheong Fun that I can't forget. A sense of pureness and simplicity that machine made Cheong Fun can't replicate. It comes only through years of day-to-day hard work, melding with patience and care, an art and heritage.


With that in mine, I wanted to recreate the kind of Chee Cheong Fun I missed. I tried many recipes online and was disappointed most of the times. But I learnt something new every time. I did, finally came to a formula that my palate agrees. It is made with only rice, water, oil and salt. No cornstarch, wheat starch and tapioca flour added.


I present you : A simple tale of steamed rice rolls. Just like how it should be, long long time ago.



小时候家乡有个阿姨每天早上都会驾着一辆载着铁皮箱的摩托车到处叫卖她制作的猪肠粉。她家的肠粉很简单,只有葱酥、芝麻粒、甜酱和辣酱,偶尔还兼卖她做的芋头糕。


她会把肠粉两条一包的剪好包装,买的时候再加酱料。那么简单的食材做出来的小吃,却让我这么多年来念念不忘,阿姨做的肠粉很滑,有着浓浓的米香,还带有微微的酸味,加上葱油和酱料,让人一口一口停不下来。


后来回乡听说阿姨因为身体不好,已经不再做/卖猪肠粉了。这个消息让我非常惆怅,小时候喜欢的味道,再也吃不到啦!


这么多年来我在许多地方也都吃过好吃的猪肠粉。但却没有一个让我那么难以忘怀。阿姨做的猪肠粉有着让人迷恋的味道,一种简单的,坚持的,古早的味道。也是我一直寻找的,味道。


为了还原我思念的这个味道,我把能够接触的资料都看了一遍,网上一些比较有名的食谱我也试过了,那些加淀粉,澄粉,薯粉的食谱做出来都不是我想念的口感和味道。


多次的失败尝试之后,我有了很多的体会。肠粉最重要的是米要好,越陈越干爽的米做出来的肠粉越香,水和粉的比例对了,就能蒸出米香浓郁,顺滑好吃的肠粉。


几次调整之后,我整理出这个自己比较满意的比例,今天写个帖子记录这个食谱。





Ingredients: (Makes 12-16 rolls)

75 g Basmati Rice (The older, the better) Can be substitute with Jasmine Rice
75 g of Thai Jasmine Rice (or any type of old long grain rice)
50 g of Japanese rice (or any type of round grain rice)
2 tbsp of Shallot oil/cooking oil  plus 3 tbsp more for brushing and coating
1/2 tsp of salt
500 ml of drinking water

材料: (能做 12 条 8 寸的肠粉)

75 克 印度香米/Basmati Rice  或 籼米/长米代替
75 克 泰国香米(或任何一种籼米/长米)
50 克 日本米 (或任何一款粳米/圆米)
2 大勺 葱油/食油  另 加 3 大勺的 葱油/食油抹盘子/肠粉用
1/2 小勺 食盐
500 毫升/克 食用水





1. Washed and soaked all 3 types of rice submerge in water for at least 5 hours, I did mine overnight.

2. Drained well, place the rice in blender with 200 ml of drinking water, grind until smooth. Take out 30 g of batter and place in a bowl.

3. Bring 80 ml of water to rolling boil, pour it into the 30 g of batter that we set aside just now to make Roux.

4. Add 2 tbsp of shallot oil ,1/2 tsp of salt and the remaining 220 ml of water into the batter, mix well.

5. Combine Roux with batter and whisk together to form a mixture of the consistency of heavy cream, let it sit for 10 minutes before steaming.

1. 把三种米混合洗净后泡水至少五个小时,或过夜。

2. 沥干水后和200毫升的食用水一起用破壁机/搅拌机搅拌顺滑。取30克放到一口耐热的碗里。


3. 把80毫升的水煮滚后冲入刚刚放有30克米浆的碗里制作熟浆。

4. 剩下的米浆里加入2大勺的葱油和1/2小勺的食盐,加入剩下的220毫升水混合备用。

5. 把生熟浆混合均匀,静置10分钟。







6. Bring water in a steamer to boil. Brush a layer of shallot oil/cooking oil over an 8 inches baking tray.

7. Ladle 1/3 cup (1/4 cup if you like it thinner) of batter/mixture into the tray and tilt around to create even coating on the bottom. The rice sheet should be very thin, roughly around 2 mm in thickness.

8. Steam the sheet for 2-2.5 minutes at high until large air bubbles form from underneath the sheet.

9. Take the tray out and let cool for a minute, use a scraper to scrape from top to bottom to help roll the sheet into a roll. Place it onto a tray that is brushed with a layer of oil/shallot oil.

10. Repeat the same process for remaining batter. Use two trays to speed up the process.


Note:Try serving the cheong fun 1-2 hours after steaming, it taste better and is crunchier in texture.

6. 把蒸炉里的水煮滚,取一个八寸的烤盘/蒸盘。刷上一层薄薄的葱油/食油。


7. 倒入1/3 杯(80克/毫升)(如果喜欢薄一些的可以用1/4杯/60克/毫升)的米浆,让米浆平铺在盘底,米浆的厚度应该只有2毫米左右。


8. 大火蒸2-2 1/2分钟,肠粉底部起大泡泡即可。



9. 取出蒸盘,冷却一分钟后用个刮刀由上而下地把肠粉卷起成条状。卷好的肠粉摆到抹油的盘子里,肠粉上也可以抹/刷一层薄薄的油。

10. 把剩下的米浆用相同的方法蒸熟,我用两个烤盘交替蒸,这样速度会快很多。


注:蒸好的肠粉不要马上吃,冷却后再等1-2小时,口感更好。

Let cool before serving, serve with Fried shallot, roasted sesame, sweet sauce/chili sauce.



肠粉冷却之后才吃更爽口顺滑,撒上葱酥和芝麻,淋上甜酱辣椒,就是最好吃的早餐啦!




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10 comments:

  1. Hi, thanks for sharing your interesting CCF recipe that using 3 types of rice. Your CCF look really delicious, well done.
    Will give it a try soon.

    Have a nice weekend, regards.
    Amelia

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Amelia, welcome to my blog! I hope that you will like it!

      Delete
  2. 我也试过很多加了其他粉类的食谱,同样是不太满意它的口感。
    之后在广州请教过一个做猪肠粉的师傅,他也是说猪肠粉的米浆是由老米磨成的。
    谢谢你的分享,我一定会试做这个猪肠粉的 ^^

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 对啊!老米才有香味,也比较干爽。新米黏糊,而且不够香。

      Delete
  3. Hi Echo, I first came across your blog in an old Y3K magazine. I just want to thank you for posting so many yummy recipes on your blog. I have tried many of your recipes and I especially like the mutton curry. For someone who doesn't read Chinese, your effort in posting in both Chinese and English is very very much appreciated.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey there! Welcome to my blog! I am glad that you liked some of my recipes!

      I will continue to post as I can.

      Do come back to pay me a visit again!

      Delete
  4. 我知道我知道...你说的是钟伟胜的妈妈. 对吗?

    (我都不知道你认不认识他! :-) )

    但我觉得你说的哪个人, 就是钟嫂.

    我只知道, 直到目前为此, 我都没吃过比她好吃的猪肠粉了.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 对对对,我认识啊!钟伟胜是我高中同学。

      你也是我老乡罗!

      Delete
    2. 盈盈,好開心見到你在這裡,兒子很高大了吧,問好!🌹Thank you for the recipe, I will try to make it.

      Delete
  5. Hi!盈盈,好開心在這裡見到你,問好,兒子很高了吧?thank you for the recipe, I will try to make it.

    ReplyDelete

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